"Vive Mexico" et Concordia

Bonjour à tous !


Cela faisait longtemps que l'idée me trottait dans la tête. Jusqu'à présent je
n'avais su faire que du tourisme. Avec l'envie de bien faire, certainement :
ne rien dénaturer, ouvrir grand les yeux, respecter "l'autochtone"... j'étais
une touriste appliquée, comme nous le sommes tous de plus en plus. Mais la
rencontre, le vrai choc des esprits, est-il possible dans ces conditions ?

Nous voyageons avec l'Occident dans nos bagages. Nous avons la tête pleine d'attentes qui ne doivent pas être déçues. Notre temps libre est précieux, capitalisons-le ! Voilà le paradoxe du touriste occidental : il veut découvrir un ailleurs authentique, mais il impose inconsciemment le rythme par lequel cet "ailleurs" doit se dévoiler, c'est-à dire en un instant, car l'heure tourne, il y a tant de choses encore à voir, et puis bientôt la vie quotidienne le happera de nouveau alors, pressons...

S'il est nécessaire pour découvrir un pays de s'ouvrir au rapport intime que
son peuple entretient avec le temps, on ne se debarrasse pas de sa propre
conception temporelle comme d'un costard-cravate. Surtout quand l'argent s'en mêle : celui qui vide sa bourse est en droit de recevoir quelque chose en retour ; mais ce que nous cherchons à obtenir, l'humain et le temps, n'est pas une marchandise, et les rapports à l'autre s'en trouvent complexifiés. Si la
rencontre, parfois, survient, elle n'est que l'interruption momentanée d'un système dont nous sommes
prisonniers.

Voilà pourquoi j'ai fait appel à l'association Concordia,
qui organise des chantiers pour bénévoles dans le monde entier. Avec
Vive
Mexico
, son partenaire au Mexique, je vais travailler avec le centre pour la
jeunesse de Morelia
, dans le Michoacan. Ma seule attente ? Etre dépaysée...



vendredi 28 septembre 2007

Portraits et anecdotes, II : Oaxaca, l'histoire d'une "Commune"

Oaxaca. Peut-être la plus belle rencontre et la plus grande frustration. Vous savez, lorsque l'on croise un être que l'on sent secrètement proche de soi, mais qui s'éloigne. J'ai mis longtemps avant de me résoudre à mettre sur la page ce nouvel épisode. J'avais peur de mentir, à moi plus qu'à vous.

Oaxaca est une ville politiquement troublée, et c'est ce qui m'a séduit. Oaxaca descend dans la rue pour pleurer l'injustice, la corruption, les morts irrésolues. Oaxaca crie sur les murs sa douleur. Ce sont les employés d'un hôtel qui se mettent en grève pour soutenir une collègue injustement renvoyée. C'est une vieille femme qui vend des tortillas sous une banderolle. C'est un artiste qui expose des silhouettes en carton percées de trous de balle.
L'année dernière, les professeurs se sont mis en grève, car ils dénonçaient leurs conditions de travail, et la pauvreté des indigènes qui ne bénéficient pas des richesses de leur terre. Une grande partie de la population les a soutenus. La révolte s'est amplifiée : on dénonce la corruption du gouverneur, le tourisme que l'on développe aux dépens de l'autochtone, les inégalités, etc. Il y eut une grande grève générale, un palais du gouverneur brûlé, une repression violente, des morts et des disparus... Et sur les murs de la ville, les cris du peuple sont effacés : un bout d'affiche ici résiste encore, et ailleurs la fin d'une phrase dévorée par le noir censeur d'un coup de pinceau. Certains slogans subsistent : "David Venegas no es nuestro lider, es nuestro hermano" ( D.V. n'est pas notre leader, il est notre frère). David Venegas est un étudiant contestataire que l'on a battu et emprisonné sous de faux prétextes.Les grandes manifestations, les actions violentes, c'était l'année dernière, mais rien n'est résolu depuis. Les élections du nouveau gouverneur arrivent, alors, on espère.

Si j'avais peur de parler de Oaxaca, c'était par crainte de ma subjectivité. J'avais peur que mon regard brillant d'admiration offre la vision biaisée d'une situation complexe dont, finalement, je ne connais pas grand chose. Je regarde le monde d'un point de vue esthétique, et c'est le pire des regards lorsque l'on parle de politique. Stendhal a cru en Napoléon comme il aurait cru en un héros de roman. Sa morale politique se réduisait à son sens esthétique...mais quelle excuse peut-on donner à l'esthétisme quand il justifie la barbarie ? Peut-on admirer un homme (ou un mouvement populaire) pour sa rhétorique, tout en le condamnant pour ses actions ?

Il flottait dans l'air de Oaxaca une électricité joyeuse et galvanisante. Sur le Zocalo, on montait une estrade pour un show politique, sous les yeux des policiers armés. Les gens parlent, sourient, ils sont sont vie et on le sent. Rien n'a su taire leur révolte. Ils ne connaissant pas la désillusion.

Ils étaient beaux, mais j'avais le devoir de me documenter, pour savoir, au-delà de l'esthétisme. Alors, une fois de retour en France, j'ai cherché. On ne parle pas beaucoup de la "Commune de Oaxaca" dans les medias européens. Je tombai sur quelques articles, et sur une video. Des images bouleversantes. Une femme brandit une fleur blanche face aux policiers. Un slogan que l'on scande : "El pueblo, unido, jamas sera vencido". Face aux policiers, pas d'insultes, mais des tentatives pour les convaincre :"Vous aussi vous faites partie du peuple ! Vous aussi vous êtes pauvres !". Un homme lève un livre au dessus de la tête, comme d'autres lèveraient le poing : "Je suis un instituteur, les livres sont ma seule arme"...
Et je pense à Rome, ville ouverte, de Rossellini, parce qu'il est un des rares films dont l'esthétisme épouse jusqu'à la confusion la dimension politique. Quand Pina s'échappe de la foule pour suivre la camionette où les soldats emmènent Francesco, puis s'effondre sous les balles... il y a ici un réquisitoire contre la barbarie, le premier manifeste du néoréalisme, et une scène à la beauté abstraite. Quand les lignes du corps d'un être, le tracé de son mouvement deviennent sens et art. Cette course insensée de Pina vers la mort, le tracé de son corps qui s'arrache à l'impersonnalité de la foule, se lance dans l'espace avec foi et amour, et choit, désarticulé, en un tressautement de mort, cette courbe a la force abstraite d'une ligne de Kandinsky brisant l'harmonie colorée. Voilà ce que j'ai ressenti à Oaxaca : la beauté et la légitimité d'une indignation.





































La dignité de ce peuple me fait penser, à l'instant où j'écris, à la révolte du peuple de Birmanie...
Pour ceux qui veulent s'informer sur l'histoire de la Commune de Oaxaca :
http://www.monde-diplomatique.fr/2006/11/VIGNA/14119
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/R%C3%A9volte_d%27Oaxaca

26 commentaires:

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C'est l'anniversaire de la disparition du Che qui t'a inspirée ? Bisou mon petit guérillero préféré. Je suis fière de toi, pour les idées que tu défends et ta façon de nous les faire patager.

Clawer a dit…

Tres interressant de lire de tels comptes-rendus d'un voyage qui n'avait pas nécessairement ces objectifs.
Ci-dessous un lien parmi tant d'autres qui informe encore sur cette partie du monde :
http://www.rsf.org/article.php3?id_article=23185
Merci pour ton point de vue, et bonne continuation dans ces combats pour lesquels, nous autres européens, ne pouvons pas faire grand chose à part relater.

Anonyme a dit…

Courageuse Annabelle!j'ai lu et relu cet étonnant compte-rendu et je suis bouleversée.Quelle maturité dans cette jolie petite tête. Aprés cette lecture on a vécu avec toi ton passage à Mexico.
Mamie

Clawer a dit…

Et la fin ? ;o)

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